It did crank when I first put it together, now, put a new tank and pump on it. It was dropped and put back together. - Battery is fully charged and I have confirmed this with volt meter reading ~13v. You must ride it to produce a load on the electrical system, or at least run the engine at a cruising RPM, for quite some time to produce the 13.5-14.5 volts required to charge the battery back up. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. Anything with EFI is going to need a good battery to run properly. Motorcycle Battery maintenance tips. These leads carry a high current and any bad connection here will result in a lower voltage over the battery-terminals. Once turning off … It only takes a tiny bit of maintenance once a month or so to keep it running well. If voltage drops below 13.8 the battery will not fully charge. My bike would not crank over. Your battery is in need of charging and the charging system on your bike is NOT working. Use a battery tender – Ideally, you want to keep your motorcycle battery at 100% all the time. The next day, I turned on my electric grips which upon turning on my ignition, drop the voltage to 11.8. Even a brand new battery can fail if it drops below a certain point. To be clear, the battery resting voltage is 12.1V. It measured the same the next day at 12.5 volts. - When battery is all hooked up and the ignition is in the OFF position the system voltage reads ~13v (I am measuring this at the battery … At idle, your bike will not produce enough voltage to recharge a battery, so even running the bike for a long time will not charge it reliably. It can even show the proper voltage (12.6 or more) and not be able to crank an engine when a load is applied. If your battery is charging perfectly but your motorcycle still seems to keep killing the battery. 2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery. A low or failing battery can cause crazy readings during your testing. By the time voltage drops to 12.7, you are drawing amperage out of the battery, so any increase in amperage output after the voltage drops to 13.8 will be considered unusable. - It is a 2000 SV with ~24k miles and nearly brand new battery. The battery’s main role on a motorcycle is to get it started. Once the motorcycle is on, the stator takes over and is what helps the bike run while also recharging the voltage the battery had to use to get the motorcycle started. I would have the battery load tested before spending money hanging random parts. If you are not getting these numbers you might have a faulty voltage regulator. When I turned on the ignition, the voltage drops to 12 – 12.1 volts. With the bike running, the voltage continues to drop to less than 6V. 3. Check fuses to begin with. With a little TLC, you can extend the life of your motorcycle battery. This NEEDS to be correctly charged and tested before you start and troubleshooting. If a battery reads 12 volts at rest, it is almost fully depleted. Maybe on an older bike. When starting the bike, the voltage drops to 8V. The full range of the battery is from just over 14 volts (when being charged by the bike running at high RPMs) down to 10.5 volts (under heavy load, for example, when the lights are on and the bike is being started). Its an 08 gsxr 600 with a brand new battery. Now the guages dont come on, voltage is stable around 12.4 until you turn the key on then it drops to 5ish and slowly rises until 6.4 and tops off. Unless you have additional electrical ad-ons, that’s basically all the battery does. 4. After sitting for a short time, the battery is back up to 12V. Battery: This is a huge part of your charging system. 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